Ahhhh Stave Hollow Form

With X-mas right around the corner, I may not get to try this as soon as I want. I am going to give a staved hollow form a go. Tim Yoder did a show a few weeks ago, that broke it down to realy easy to understand steps. Luckily I recorded the 2 part show I know Fred wants to give it a try as well. I was wondering if anyone else would like to hook up and join in on the fun. As of now I'm thinking after X-mas as to a timeline to get started.

ok

Sure, I'm a glutton for punishment.

DougB wrote:

Sure, I'm a glutton for punishment.

Nah, shouldn't be that hard, once the cutting and glueing is done.

Anyone else going to jump on this one?

Yep Dave the hard part is the cuttin and gluein

Quote :

Nah, shouldn't be that hard, once the cutting and glueing is done.

That's the part I'm worried about!

I'm going to give it a try after the first of the year, doing Christmas Presents now.

Am I seeing the january challenge here?

Southernlyon wrote:

Am I seeing the january challenge here?

Might be a tad complicated for that This one is more just for the fun of doing. Perhaps down the road a tad.

Ok, so I did a little search on the net for stave tips, and the second one in the list is the vessel that I'm talking about here. This link has video from the show that has been cut down a bit, but it should give you an idea of what the heck I'm talking about. Click link and scroll down a tad to where you see watch the experts on the left hand side. It is 2 parts: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30742

Great link Dave. I got all excited yesterday and tried just making a ring. The 30 degrees for a 6 sided came out pretty close. A little adjustment with a small block plane got them pretty close. A little more work with the plane and test fitting would have gotten me cleaner glue lines. I've never been all that excited by stave work, but the ones with thin accents in between the staves look great. They would also help hide any glue lines that aren't super tight.

BTW that glue up jig that he puts on the lathe would require me to wear Depends when turning in my shop.

DougB wrote:

BTW that glue up jig that he puts on the lathe would require me to wear Depends when turning in my shop.

I'm sure Fred wouldn't mind you borrowing some of his

Seriously, sounds like you had a good attempt for the first try. I may have to play around on the saw today, well I want to anyways, but my nose is really screwed up with this sinus infection. I should probably stay clear of the shop for a couple more days.

Dave W wrote:

DougB wrote:

BTW that glue up jig that he puts on the lathe would require me to wear Depends when turning in my shop.

I'm sure Fred wouldn't mind you borrowing some of his

Seriously, sounds like you had a good attempt for the first try. I may have to play around on the saw today, well I want to anyways, but my nose is really screwed up with this sinus infection. I should probably stay clear of the shop for a couple more days.

nope you cant borrow any ofmine

Ah shucks Fred come on now lets share some of those depends with Doug..

Well, I completed my first staved vessel. I'm very happy with it except for the top. It won't be my last.

Walnut and maple sanding sealer and buffed wax




The base is cross grained to the vessel. I didn't have anything big enough to do it oriented with the vessel. It's about 2" across, do you think there will be wood movement problems? Anybody have better ideas for the top? I don't particularly like the transition. Perhaps I should have started it lower on the vessel. I was concerned about the wood movement problem, as well as cross grained to long grain glue ups.

I was rounding out the 4th blank for the top. (The first 3 were laying on the shop floor with various divots out of the sides.) I was overdue for lunch and rather frustrated. As I was finishing the last cut, I hit the running blade with my right thumb. Just a little nick. Hardly worth a bandaid. I've had much worse pealing vegetables. The point is I had lost my respect for fast moving sharp metal. I've always regarded the BS as relatively safe. Surely the same mistake on a TS would probably have resulted in a trip to the ER. Perhaps with iced down small parts. I need to gain more respect for the BS.

Hey, let's be careful out there.

Doug! That's beautiful! Wow!

looks great to me
nothing wrong with top
nice job

Yep, not bad for the first stab!

Good Job Doug top looks good to me

Just an update on my foray into staved vessels. I made a jig for the table saw this weekend. I was more than a little nervous cutting them just up against the fence. It is basically a crosscut sled (there are runners on the bottom that fit in the miter slots on the TS top) with hold downs for the stock, and a removable fence.


This is it:

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The fence just helps line up the stock with the cut. I can put a tapered spacer between the fence and the stock to cut tapered staves. Here's a picture with the fence out of the way and just a piece of stock being held down.

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I've cut a couple with it. So far I've had less than stellar results. I'm getting a lot of burning on the maple, and some saw marks. I can clean them up with a hand plane, but I was hoping for something a little better right off the TS. I think the big problem is I need a new blade. I have a thin kerf, high tooth count crosscut blade that has probably seen too many cuts. This is really the wrong type of blade for this operation. I may have to wait until I get my leave money in a month and get a glue line rip blade (These are great blades, but rather pricey.). I almost bought a cheap rip blade the other day, but didn't want to spend some money now and then end up with the right thing in a couple of weeks.

Yeah, I was going to say, that your blade is either dull or gummed up. A new one should do the trick for you.